As the festive season approaches, Jesse Burgess, co-founder and host of the popular food and travel platform Topjaw, reflects on the joys and challenges of dining out during winter. From comforting dishes to the hustle of the holiday season, Burgess provides insight into what makes winter dining enjoyable and what can be frustrating.
Winter Delights: Pies, Game, and Atmosphere
Burgess begins with his fondness for pies, highlighting them as a quintessential British dish. He quips about the diversity of British cuisine, praising it as one of the most varied in the world. “A pie is one of the greatest dishes ever created,” he states, particularly favoring a rich chicken, rabbit, and tarragon pie accompanied by creamy mash and flavorful gravy. While he admits that he wouldn’t crave such comfort in the summer, the colder months make it irresistible.
Game season adds another layer of excitement to winter dining. Notable restaurants like The Harwood Arms in west London and Trullo in Islington are known for their exceptional game dishes. Burgess also recommends Camille in Borough Market, where game and offal are made accessible and delicious for diners.
Candles play a significant role in creating the right atmosphere during winter meals. Burgess recalls a recent filming trip to Paris, where he was enchanted by the warm glow of candlelight, despite the challenges it posed for filming. He emphasizes that nothing quite matches the ambiance that candles provide, making dining experiences feel more intimate.
With the arrival of winter, Burgess expresses his preference for full-bodied red wines. “I drink red wine all year round,” he explains, noting that winter is the perfect time for velvety, jammy reds. This seasonal shift often sees many joining him in opting for richer wines, enhancing the dining experience.
Another seasonal favorite for Burgess is the classic blini, which he fondly associates with his mother’s homemade versions topped with salmon and caviar. He argues against reinventing traditional canapés, asserting that the classics should remain untouched.
The festive spirit, which Burgess refers to as “silly season,” also brings a sense of joy. He enjoys the relaxed atmosphere during this time when people are more inclined to socialize and indulge. The longer evenings, with darkness arriving earlier, encourage more meaningful gatherings over dinner.
Pubs, he argues, are a staple of British culture throughout the year, but they truly shine in winter. Burgess appreciates the inviting atmosphere of pubs, describing them as places that provide comfort and warmth during the chilly months.
Winter Challenges: Coat Issues and Steamy Windows
While there is much to love about winter dining, Burgess also shares his frustrations. One major annoyance is the lack of cloakroom space in many restaurants. Guests often find themselves either wearing their coats at the table or leaving them in a heap, leading to discomfort and concern over lost belongings.
Steamy windows evoke a particular unease for Burgess, reminding him of a scene from a classic film. While he concedes that frosty windows can be charming, the sight of condensation on glass is less appealing and adds to the dining experience’s discomfort.
January poses an additional challenge for the hospitality industry, as many people participate in Dry January. Burgess finds this particularly unfortunate for pubs and restaurants, which often see a significant drop in patronage during this month. To counteract this trend, he and his friends have established a “Saturday Swim Club,” where they come together for a pub crawl, ensuring that they keep the festive spirit alive even in the new year.
As a prominent figure in the culinary world, Jesse Burgess continues to celebrate the rich tapestry of winter dining while acknowledging the unique challenges it presents. His insights offer a glimpse into the joys of the season, characterized by hearty meals, social gatherings, and the warm ambiance of restaurants and pubs alike. For those interested in exploring the culinary landscape, Burgess’s insights serve as a valuable guide to navigating winter dining experiences.
