Japanese designer Soshiotsuki made a remarkable debut on the international fashion stage with his Fall 2026 collection, showcased at the historic Santa Maria Novella in Florence. The show, held on Thursday, attracted significant attention as Soshiotsuki presented a blend of nostalgia and contemporary style, drawing on influences from the 1980s and 1990s.
The designer’s collection pays homage to the fluid tailoring championed by the late Giorgio Armani, whom Soshiotsuki regards as a personal hero. His work reflects a deep appreciation for the influx of Italian fashion in Japan during the country’s economic boom decades. The collection featured gray double-breasted suits with elongated blazers, alongside boxy beige and brown pieces that evoked the power-dressing trend of the past while maintaining a distinctly modern flair.
Soshiotsuki’s designs celebrated fragility over tradition, offering a unique perspective on masculinity. Playful elements punctuated the looks, such as a cropped leather blouson cinched with a narrow belt, which exaggerated its silhouette, and a peacoat lined with faux fur. Oxford shirts were reimagined, cut on the bias to enhance their drape when tucked into tailored pants, often styled with neck scarves instead of traditional ties.
In a preview with WWD ahead of the show, Soshiotsuki explained his artistic journey, stating, “Up until now I have been telling the story of the era when Italian suits flowed into Japan. This time, I am approaching the collection with the intention of re-exporting that story back in the opposite direction.” He elaborated on the differences between Japanese and Italian tailoring, highlighting the precision of Japanese craftsmanship and the sensuality of Italian designs.
“It’s not about which one is better; I value holding both of these perspectives at the same time,” Soshiotsuki noted. His collection was met with enthusiastic applause, marking a successful foray into the global fashion landscape.
As the audience cheered for the designer’s vision, it became clear that Soshiotsuki’s work resonates with contemporary audiences while honoring historical influences. The Fall 2026 collection not only showcased beautiful garments but also conveyed a rich narrative of cultural exchange and evolution in fashion.
With this debut, Soshiotsuki has positioned himself as a promising talent within the international fashion scene, inviting viewers to appreciate the interplay of past and present in his designs.
